I pedal my gravel bike up to the shaded overlook at the Painted Hills Unit, a particularly beautiful part of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. I’m halfway through the day’s gravel ride on one of the area’s dozen routes with my dad and his friend, and we’ve made a split decision to stop here on our way to Mitchell, about 12 miles away.
Leaning my bike against a bench, I take off my helmet and feel the gentle breeze ruffle my sweaty hair. It’s late spring, and the desert sun already feels intense during the middle of the day. The shade offers a welcome reprieve as I take in the striated burnt-red and yellow hillsides before me.
The side trip added a few miles, but it’s well worth it for the millions of years of geology on display and, among the rocks, a proliferation of wildflowers: the bright-yellow showy goldeneye, purple prairie clover and orange globe mallow. On this quiet weekday, only a few other visitors meander the hiking paths among these ancient hills.
It’s spring in the John Day area and a great time to hit the gravel for cyclists. Here’s the scoop on what we saw and how to enjoy the charms of high-desert views and routes near Mitchell.
Riding the Priest Hole Gravel Route
We started our ride at the Priest Hole Recreation Site, which is an undeveloped camping area along the John Day River with restroom facilities and a boat launch. The Priest Hole gravel route is a 42-mile loop that climbs 3,500 feet over a mix of gravel and pavement. It encircles the Sutton Mountain Wilderness Study Area, with the John Day River at one end and the town of Mitchell at the other. Cyclists can start and end at the river or in Mitchell, and the route can be completed in one day or two.
Since the loop is closed until May 15, 2025, head out mid-May to early June, the perfect time to ride. Daylight hours are reaching their max, the sun feels warm but not too intense and Eastern Oregon wildflower blooms are peaking. It makes a much better option than summer, as there’s little shade or water along this high-desert route.
Following the route counterclockwise, we climbed up and away from the river for a few miles before turning south toward the Painted Hills. From there we cruised along smooth gravel over rolling hills, breathing in the fragrant desert air and feeling the sun’s warmth on our skin. Bursts of wildflowers dotted the side of the road, and hawks, herons, eagles and other birdlife floated in and out of our field of view.
After our lunch break at the Painted Hills, we climbed up and over one more bluff before gliding down into Mitchell for an overnight stay at cyclist-friendly Spoke’n Hostel. The next day we rode north, following the Painted Hills Scenic Bikeway, before turning west and winding through canyon walls and verdant pastures back to the John Day River. This section was mostly paved roads, with light traffic that included locals who slowed down and gave us room on the road. We finished the ride with a bumpy gravel descent and a dunk in the river just as the day was heating up, and finished at Priest Hole.
Other Gravel-Riding Routes and Resources
Priest Hole is merely one of about a dozen route options around Mitchell. Distances range from 34 to 64 miles, which can be done in a single push or as a multiday bike-packing adventure. One ride with big views, Mitch & Walt, is a demanding, 64-mile ride, but you can break up the mileage with an overnight stay in Mitchell. This route is also ideal for late spring, when blooming meadows and gurgling creeks make the ride even more pleasant.
An easier ride is Big Summit Prairie, which travels through prairie lands and ponderosa forest in the Ochoco National Forest. Along the way, you’ll pass 70-plus-year-old abandoned mining communities, and you might spot antelope and wild mustangs, in addition to springtime blooms like Peck’s mariposa lily, a lavender-petaled flower that’s unique to the Ochocos. This 50-mile route also has 30-mile and 70-mile variations and would be a great ride to tack on while staying in Mitchell or Prineville, or camping in the Ochoco National Forest.
Where to Eat, Play and Stay in Mitchell
It’s worth making any ride or visit to Mitchell a multiday adventure just for the chance to stay at the Spoke’n Hostel. With 12 dorm-style beds available for reservation, this cyclist-centered hostel along the Adventure Cycling Association’s TransAmerica Trail buzzes with stories from the road and bike enthusiasm without feeling crowded or busy.
The cozy lodging has a fully stocked kitchen with fresh local coffee in the mornings, hot showers, comfortable beds, games, books, musical instruments, maps and resources, photos, and news clippings about local history. Out back, relax on lawn chairs or soak your tired legs in Bridge Creek.
A short walk up the block, Tiger Town Brewing Co. offers refreshing craft brews and a robust food menu. Nine different burger offerings are sure to grab your attention, but salads and vegetarian-friendly options — as well as freshly squeezed lemonade — ensure there’s something for everyone. Farther up the street, a grocery store carries all the essentials you might need to restock your bike-snack supply.
Hiking around the Painted Hills will offer your riding legs a break along with an opportunity to explore a geological wonder. Learn more about the local geological history of this region in fossil displays, murals and a fish-bowl paleontology lab at the Thomas Condon Visitor Center, located 33 miles west of Mitchell along Highway 26.
If You Go:
- Dirty Freehub is the best resource for learning and planning your gravel ride. Each route listed on the site includes a review, photos, a difficulty rating and a detailed description, as well as specifics about the riding surface, distance, elevation gain, tire recommendation and best time to go. The site also has downloadable files that can be uploaded to any navigation device or smart watch to help you stay on route. In other words, you can find everything you need to plan your ride.
- Spring in the high-elevation desert of Eastern Oregon can be unpredictable and fickle, and it’s possible to experience all four seasons in a single day. While late spring trends toward milder temperatures and sunny days, be sure to check the forecast before you go.
- Eastern Oregon is remote and weather can change quickly, so pack plenty of water and snacks, first-aid supplies, and tools for minor bike repairs or changing a flat tire. It’s also a good idea to pack a light jacket and sunscreen so you’re ready for unexpected changes.
- Phone service is spotty outside of Mitchell; don’t count on using your phone for communication or navigation. Download digital maps in advance, carry a paper map as backup, and carry a satellite communication device in case you need to call for help.
