When my wife and I picked up our 2-year-old daughter at her preschool early on Friday afternoon, her teacher Karen took us taside. "All week long, Annabel has been talking about a zoo dance that's she's going to tonight. What's this dance all about?" My wife
Deidre stared blankly for a moment, and then things clicked. "Annabel's excited about going to a dude ranch," she said with a laugh.
Indeed, after a week of modeling her pink cowgirl boots and faux rawhide jacket with her 6-year-old sister Cassidy, there was much anticipation for our adventure to the Bar M Ranch, 30-odd miles east of Pendleton, in the foothills of Northeast Oregon's Blue Mountains.
And no one was disappointed.
Nestled on the floor of a steep canyon studded with old-growth pine and fir trees and bifurcated by the Umatilla River, the 3,000-acre Bar M Ranch property is exquisite. Its hand-hewn main lodge dates back to 1864, when it was a stagecoach stop on the Thomas and Ruckel toll road, which ran from Walla Walla, Wash., over the Blue Mountains and east on to Boise, Idaho. The property was especially attractive to weary travelers because of its natural hot springs (which continue to flow today, heating the waters of the Bar M's spacious pool). Over the next 80 years, the property saw various incarnations as inn, sanitarium and resort until Idaho ranchers Howard and Bonnie Baker purchased it in 1938. After extensive renovations, it reopened 10 years later as the Bar M Ranch, a historic dude ranch getaway.
"Dude ranching" was born of the lure of the Wild West, and the desire of many Americans to find some solace from the increasingly congested metropolises of the eastern seaboard. The completion of the transcontinental railroads in the 1880s put the West's rugged mountains in reach of visitors, but upon arrival, they found little in the way of accommodations. Cattle and horse ranchers, bound to an unofficial code of hospitality, opened their doors to these urban folk, who were as taken with the ranch lifestyle as with the natural wonders of the wide-open spaces. Some of their guests-many of whom stayed for extended periods-began repaying their hosts' kindness with hard currency, and a new revenue stream was conceived.
Today, there are more than 100 dude ranches operating in 13 Western states and two Canadian provinces. The experience these ranches offer varies: Some allow visitors to partake in the operation of a working cattle operation; others provide a mountain retreat with ranch trappings, and a healthy helping of horseback riding. The Bar M falls in the latter category.
Over a hearty ranch breakfast of eggs, bacon and biscuits this Saturday morning, I am compelled to revisit my horseback riding career: 40 years earlier, I had mounted a Morgan horse at a county fair in Maine, and within 30 seconds, fell off. That was it. In less than an hour, I'd be taking my second horseback ride. My 6-year-old, Cassidy, seems to share none of my inhibitions, though the sum total of her riding experience is three pony trots around the paddocks at Sunriver Resort in Central Oregon.
Outside, the wranglers-Trampas, Aaron and Tilly-prepare our horses. Each receives two saddle pads and then their saddle. A large horse named Monkey needs his horseshoe reset, a procedure that Trampas quickly performs.
I hoist Cassidy onto her steed, Misty, and clamber onto my ride, Cheyenne. I anticipate a fairly lengthy primer on the art of horseback riding, but Tilly's instructions are to the point: "Hold your reins above the knot with one hand; pull on the left rein to go left, the right rein to go right, and up on both reins to get your horse's head up if he starts feeding," she says. "And be sure to give the horse plenty of rein if it wants to drink when we're crossing the river."
Crossing the river?
Seconds later we're off on a thin trail that weaves through the cottonwoods bordering the Umatilla. I grip the saddle horn with considerable pressure as branches slap against my legs. Cassidy, who is riding in front of me, sits high in the saddle, unfazed even as we cross the river, again and again. "Kids have natural balance," Tilly later says. "They do a lot better as first-timers than adults." An hour or so passes before we return to the paddock. Cassidy is beaming; I am content that I survived without a fall.
While Bar M guests have the option to ride several times a day, there's also plenty of time for just hanging out. This afternoon, my family and I spend several hours between the pool and the hot tub, just relaxing and splashing in the water. Our fingers begin to prune, so Cassidy and I dry off and head to the river, where I give her a few fly-casting lessons (we even pick up some palm-size trout in the process, much to Cassidy's delight).
Later, after a delicious dinner of prime rib, a dozen or so guests gather by the fire pit. We roast S'mores and tell scary stories well past bedtime.
The next morning, Cassidy and her mom are slated for another hour and a half ride, but not before little Annabel has her moment of equestrian glory. I lift Annabel onto the back of an especially docile horse named Miko, and she grabs the saddle horn with almost as much confidence as her big sister. Tilly offers constant encouragement as the four of us-Annabel, Miko, Tilly and myself-circle the yard. When Annabel dismounts, Tilly gives her an oatcake to offer Miko for a job well done.
"We've had a number of kids who wouldn't come within 50 feet of a horse when they first arrived," Tilly says. "By the time they leave they're riding Stagecoach-our toughest trail-up the side of the canyon." She also says that it's the kids who make her job so much fun. "They smile and giggle and notice the small things like caterpillars that adults don't always see."
"I do have to say that I feel a little bad for the parents when they leave," Tilly adds. "I know that all they'll hear the whole ride home is 'I want a ranch!'"
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Other Ranches in Oregon
THE BAR M RANCH Adams, Oregon.
This 3,000-acre mountain retreat with ranch trappings offers horseback riding adventures and more. www.barmranch.com 888.824.3381
ASPEN RIDGE RESORT Bly, Oregon. Set on 14,000-acre Fishhole Creek Ranch, Aspen Ridge lets you experience the daily workings of an operating cattle and buffalo ranch. www.aspenrr.com 800.393.3323
ROCK SPRINGS GUEST RANCH Bend, Oregon.
Here the emphasis is on horseback riding and programs for young buckaroos.
www.rocksprings.com 800.225.3833
LONG HOLLOW RANCH Sisters, Oregon.
A working cattle ranch for more than 100 years, guests can ride trails or work alongside ranch hands. www.lhranch.com 877.923.1901
WILLOW SPRINGS GUEST RANCH Lakeview, Oregon.
This 2,000-acre working ranch features rustic cabins,
trail riding, campfire cuisine and more. www.willow
springsguestranch.com 541.947.5499
LONESOME DUCK RANCH & RESORT Chiloquin, Oregon.
Set on the Williamson River, it offers charming guest cabins as well as trout fishing, wildlife viewing and more. www.lonesomeduck.com 541.783.2783
BIG K GUEST RANCH & GUIDE SERVICES Elkton, Oregon.
This 2,500-acre ranch is complete with 20 private cabins, a game room, and endless options for horseback riding through the woods and along the beautiful Umpqua River.
www.big-k.com, 800.390.BIGK (2445)
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