Hot Summer Nights

San Diego, Tucson, Miami, curb your envy. Thanks to the magic of Oregon’s northern latitude and a nudge from daylight savings time, Portland enjoys summer evenings so deliciously long, at solstice it’s nearly 10 o’clock before dusk surrenders to the dark.

Like kids without a curfew, Portlanders play while it lasts, soaking up the warmth and rays in open-air cafés and concerts, on urban trails—even on the water. And so can you. Here’s just a sampling of the many ways and places to play while you’re in town. When in Portland, do as the locals do: eat—and drink—outdoors. In recent years, sidewalk cafés have proliferated here, especially in the thriving Pearl District and trendy Nob Hill neighborhoods. Northwest 21st Avenue boasts an especially rich density of al fresco dining opportunities. On the convivial patio at Wildwood Restaurant, fresh air enhances conversation and matches emphatically fresh, seasonal ingredients—think heirloom tomato salad and meaty, tender crabcakes. Thicker still is the bevy of sidewalk cafés clustered around Northwest 13th Avenue and Hoyt Street. For a party atmosphere, try Oba! restaurant, where Nuevo Latino cuisine happily coincides with a sexy cocktail scene. Conversely, the café tables across the street at Giorgio’s promise elegance and serenity along with northern Italian-influenced cuisine. At nearby Paragon, it’s all about people watching, cocktails and appetizers, including a savory gorgonzola cheesecake. Downtown, diners gravitate to the Veritable Quandary, a gracious restaurant and bar with authentic old-Portland appeal, Northwest cuisine and a leafy patio facing the picturesque Hawthorne Bridge. Folks in the know come here for the impressive selection of wines by the glass—over 40 at last count.

Salty’s on the Columbia is another favorite, the granddaddy of Portland’s riverfront restaurants. Perched above the legendary river dividing Oregon and Washington, Salty’s delivers classic seafare (seafood chowder, planked salmon) along with the main course: a powerhouse water-and-mountain view from bi-level wraparound decks.

New to the eastside scene is clarklewis, recently named one of the country’s top restaurants of 2004 by Gourmet magazine. Here, patrons dine on highly seasonal Italian cuisine by candlelight in a hip, industrial-style setting whose huge, garage-door-like windows open to fresh air. Alternatively, if you’re partial to live music when dining in the open air, nothing beats Produce Row Café and its funky, spacious courtyard. Tucked away in an improbable warehouse district, the café boasts nearly 30 craft beers on tap, gourmet sandwiches and live music six nights a week—all served outdoors while summer lasts.

Hungry mainly for music? Thanks to Portlanders’ voracious acoustical appetites, summer here promises plenty of outdoor concerts. Among the most popular are Wells Fargo Summer Concerts at the Oregon Zoo. Now in their 26th season, zoo concerts cater to Portland preferences with a tasty blend of folk, country, alternative, traditional and world sounds. Folks flock here to picnic on the sunny sloping lawn while their favorite artists perform; recent years have featured the likes of Emmylou Harris, Cesaria Evora and David Byrne.

Almost as venerable is the Portland Parks and Recreation Summer Concerts Program—and the music’s always free. After the Fourth of July, the parks launch a series of weekly performances in parks scattered throughout the city, culminating with two straight weeks of early evening concerts in August at Washington Park.

For music in an exotic setting, don’t miss Tuesdays by Twilight at the Portland Classical Chinese Garden. Beginning in July, the Tuesday night series showcases everything from jazz to classical Chinese sounds performed inside a walled, Ming Dynasty-style garden. Complete with teahouse and a tiny lake that goes from gold to deep green as the sun sets, an evening here is pure enchantment—for less than the cost of a CD.

With daylight to spare and an abundance of natural splendors, Portland beckons visitors to get outside and move. For an urban adventure, try the Mazama Street Ramble, a twice-weekly evening hike/run through the streets and trails of hilly Northwest Portland, one of the city’s greenest, most picturesque neighborhoods. You’ll get exercise and a peek at a part of Portland rarely seen by visitors.

Or you could ramble on the river. Portland River Company offers evening kayaking trips around Ross Island from May through September. The trip offers a unique glimpse of nature in the city including an impressive blue heron rookery and the Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge. And there’s no more magical view of the Portland skyline than from the water at dusk, as you glide back to shore.