Wine Wandering
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When settlers first came to the southern part of this state, they discovered
a temperate land filled with lush valleys that begged to nourish plantstock,
agreeably cool in the spring, intensely warm in the summer. Today, Oregon’s
“banana belt” is provoking discovery of a different sort —
the rich, ripe products of the region’s wineries.
Since the renaissance of Oregon’s winemaking industry some 30 years ago,
the area drawing most attention is the cooler Willamette Valley to the north.
But that’s changing, as wine lovers begin to discover what Southern Oregon
vintners have known all along: The drier climate of the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate
valleys provides a perfect place to nurture sometimes-fickle wine grapes.
This is good news for grape growers, and also for visitors who prefer to enjoy
perennially blue skies as they sip their way through this region, home to about
two dozen wineries.
A perfect place to start is Henry Estate Winery near the town of Umpqua, north
of Roseburg. One of the state’s oldest wineries, it features a wide selection
of libations, from supple Pinot noir to lush, rich merlot and syrah. Bring a
picnic lunch and enjoy the winery’s gardens.
One of Oregon’s most enjoyable and innovative wineries lies to the south
of Roseburg, just off Interstate 5 near Winston. Abacela Vineyards and Winery
specializes in out-of-the-ordinary wines such as Tempranillo, Dolcetto and
Sangiovese. These red-wine grapes are well known in Spain and Italy, but rarely
grown in Oregon. Owners Earl and Hilda Jones, two of the friendliest folks in
the business, treat visitors like family.
And if the wines aren’t adventure enough, drive-through animal park Wildlife
Safari, famous for its cheetah breeding program, is just down the road from
Winston’s city center.
A few miles southwest of Winston is Girardet Wine Cellars, which makes a wide
selection of reds and whites. Of particular interest is the Baco Noir, a rare
red wine that’s a perennial consumer favorite.
A two-hour drive on I-5 takes visitors to the attraction-laden Rogue and Applegate
valleys. Here, the self-guided Oregon Wine & Farm Tour offers visitors a
glimpse of Southern Oregon’s fertile agricultural base. Besides several
wineries and orchards, the 15-stop tour includes Harry & David’s gift
and produce center, the historic Hanley Farm, the Rogue Valley Creamery and
the only working marble quarry in the state. Download a map at www.oregonfarmtours.com
or pick one up at any visitors center.
One can easily spend an entire day in the Ashland area, taking in culture as
well as wine. The first stop is Paschal, an exciting young winery in Talent
that is producing Pinot noir, merlot, Pinot gris and more.
Farther down the interstate is Ashland Vineyards, famous for the white wine
Shakespeare’s Love, named for the world-renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival
in town.
Nearby, Weisinger’s of Ashland produces fine Gewürztraminer and
cabernet sauvignon. Inside the tasting room, don’t miss the beehive (don’t
worry, it’s behind glass), where you can watch bees produce the winery’s
estate honey.
Remember that the Shakespeare Festival and other attractions in Ashland make
this a popular destination, so book ahead for lodging and restaurants.
To get to historic Jacksonville and the wineries of the Applegate Valley, you’ll
need to backtrack a bit to Medford, then head west to this charmingly historic
town, which looks much as it did when built during Oregon’s gold rush
of 1851. Once you’re ready to taste wine, start at Valley View Winery,
which has a tasting room in town.
Prepare for a little driving to reach the end of the Southern Oregon wine trail.
Foris Vineyards and Bridgeview Winery are in Cave Junction, off Highway 199.
Bridgeview is Oregon’s largest winery and makes some of its best wines
— and best values. Bridgeview’s grounds are spectacular, so spend
some time walking around and feel free to bring a picnic lunch.
Foris crafts top-rated Pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and Pinot gris and is,
literally, the end of the road, as it’s just six miles to the California
border. The wondrous Oregon Caves National Monument is a quick drive away and
shouldn’t be missed.
The southern region’s many and varied wineries offer anyone the chance
to become, for a day or two, an Oregon pioneer charting largely unknown territory
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