Getaway Ride of Discovery

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Floating down the Columbia River in November 1805, Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery came ashore on an island near modern-day Portland. They named it ""Wappato"" after the potato-like water root gathered there by natives. Now called Sauvie Island, it's an ideal starting point for a bicycle tour paralleling the explorers' final river miles to the Pacific.

The first day's ride, 36 miles to Rainier, begins at the Bybee-Howell pioneer homestead and rolls off Sauvie Island at a leisurely pace onto Highway 30, quickly passing the former site of Fort William, a fur-trading post built by an enterprising New Englander in 1834.

The highway runs flat, offering riders plenty of time to get the legs working smoothly through Scappoose, St. Helens and the historic riverside town of Columbia City. Here, a two-block detour leads to the wonderfully preserved Caples House, built in 1870.

Back on course, Lewis and Clark history picks up at the town of Deer Island, which the explorers named following a successful hunt. Eight miles farther, the Corps camped at present-day Prescott Beach County Park, an area alive with waterfowl. William Clark wrote of Prescott: ""I slept but verry little last night for the noise kept during the whole night by the swans, geese and white and great Brant ducks, etc.""

Prescott Beach is the perfect place to rest, swim and picnic before the next stop, Rainier, and the end of the first day's ride.

The second leg of the journey, 50 miles from Rainier to Astoria, begins with a pair of long ascents. The first uphill grind is rewarded with a long, fast descent into Clatskanie. Beyond Clatskanie, the second long ascent leads to the Bradley Wayside viewpoint for a superb view over the Columbia River basin.

A nice side trip just beyond Bradley Wayside (but with a steep down and return) leads to the once prosperous fishing village of Clifton. Among the old deserted buildings, a small cannery still operates.

Continuing west, at Svensen look for a sign indicating ""Old Highway 30."" Make the turn for the chance to ride along the edges of the 35,000-acre Twilight Eagle Sanctuary, part of the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge.

Forced by severe rains and high winds to overnight here, the Corps purchased fish and wappato from the Cathlamet tribe for what Clark described as ""immoderate prices."" Fortunately, the hills and riding are moderate from here into Astoria. Save some energy for the ascent to the Astoria Column, high on Coxcomb Hill. The 125-foot-tall column, its exterior art panels commemorating the area's history, offers sweeping views of the mouth of the Columbia River.

Riders begin their third day with a choice: a 16-mile direct ride from Astoria to Seaside, or a ride of up to 30 miles with various side trips. From Astoria, the route turns south, for bicycle touring at its best Ñ smooth road surfaces over gently rolling terrain in a calming, lush countryside. Keep an eye open for signs to Fort Clatsop, where the Corps spent the winter of 1805-06.

From Fort Clatsop, a direct route follows Lewis and Clark River Road to Seaside. Riders also can enjoy a side trip to Young's River Falls. A Corps of Discovery hunting party found the falls in March 1806, marveling at its ""60 feet of perpendicular pitch.""

Either way, the last miles to Seaside roll past farm fields before making a long ascent surrounded by dense forest. The ascent leads to a fast, twisting descent to the north end of Seaside.

Now on Highway 101, it's a flat easy pedal to the center of Seaside. A short spin south of town is the site of the Corps' Salt Works, where explorers boiled sea water for the raw salt to preserve their meat.

Peddling back downtown, ride Broadway to the beach. Your destination? A spectacular ocean view from the Lewis and Clark Monument, trail's end for this 102-mile ride of discovery.

And what's more...
Day 1: 36 miles from Sauvie Island to Rainier.

Bybee-Howell House - A glimpse into what life was like for early settlers along the Columbia River. Open June 2 to Sept. 2, Saturday and Sunday, 12 to 5 p.m. Donation $2. Sauvie Island Road; 503-222-1741.

Caples House - Built in 1870, the meticulously restored property includes the main house, country store, tool shed and carriage house. Open March to October, Friday-Sunday and holidays, 1 to 5 p.m. Admission $2 adults, $1 children. 1915 First St., Columbia City; 503-397-5390 or visit http://www.rootsweb.com/~orossdar/Caples.htm

Day 2: 50 miles from Rainier to Astoria.

Columbia River Maritime Museum
An extensive collection of maritime artifacts fills the museum's spacious new building. Open daily, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: $8 adults; $7 seniors; $4 youth 6-17. 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria; 503-325-2323 or visit www.crmm.org

The Flavel House Museum
Built in 1885 by bar pilot and speculator Captain George Flavel, the Queen Anne Victorian features room displays complete with costumed mannequins. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission $5 adults; $4 seniors; $2 youth 6-17. 441 Eighth St., Astoria; 503-325-2203 or visit http://www.oldoregon.com/Pages/flavel.htm

Day 3: A 16-mile direct ride from Astoria to Seaside, or a ride of up to 30 miles with various side trips.

Fort Clatsop National Memorial
Costumed rangers offer demonstrations of the skills explorers used to stay alive during the winter of 1805-06. Open daily 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission $4 per car, which includes all occupants; $2 for walk-ins. 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Warrenton; 503-861-2471 or visit www.nps.gov/focl

Fort Stevens State Park
A network of bicycle trails connect this old military base's many attractions, which include campgrounds, picnic areas, a military history museum and wildlife viewing areas. Open year-round 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission: $3 day-use fee. 100 Peter Iredale Drive, Hammond; 503-861-3170 or visit http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_179.php