Powder Hounds

Two inches per hour. That's how much snow is falling outside, which is a lot. So much, in fact, that if you add enough wind, a snowstorm of this strength officially becomes a blizzard. Luckily, the winds are not quite that powerful, and what my brother-in-law, Caleb, and I are driving through is the kind of weather that sends some people straight for home but others straight for the mountains. We fall into the latter group. We're driving into the storm to go skiing, or more precisely, cat skiing on Oregon's Mt. Bailey.

Perched in the Cascade Range, just a short distance from Crater Lake, Mt. Bailey is home to more than 6,000 acres of skiable backcountry terrain of all kinds: glades, bowls, steep chutes and everything in between. It also boasts an impressive average yearly snowfall of 600 inches, virtually guaranteeing that you can find deep snow throughout the season. What it doesn't have are any ski lifts. So, if you want to access its bounty you need to be prepared to hike for it, or ride the snow cat "taxi" offered by Cat Ski Mt. Bailey. Run out of the rustically classic Diamond Lake Lodge, Cat Ski Mt. Bailey has been safely ferrying powder hounds into the backcountry since 1977.

Oregon Hwy 138, which hugs the North Umpqua River from the town of Glide all the way to Diamond Lake, is a striking piece of road. The spruce and fir are dense with needles, but everything else is bare, allowing for better viewing of the water itself as the road twists and turns to match the river's meanders. The color of the water in winter is a milky, glacial blue/green that defies easy description-mixed with the snow on the pines and the ribbon of the river, the canyon becomes an eerily beautiful scene.

Diamond Lake Lodge may not be quite as well known as its cousin to the north, Timberline Lodge, but its location on the shores of the alpine Diamond Lake is no less awesome. A haven for anglers and families in the summer, in winter it's home to hardcore snowmobile enthusiasts and even more dedicated skiers and snowboarders. The lodge is cozy and welcoming, and the rooms are no-nonsense and tidy. Caleb and I roll in after dark, and after a beer by the fireside bar, we're ready for bed. Call time for breakfast is 7a.m., and we want to be ready to ski.

The morning of our excursion, we sip coffee and feel the buzz of the others who will be in the cat with us. It's been snowing steadily all night at the lodge, but higher up on the flanks of Mt. Bailey, it's been dumping. Everyone is fired up about the day, and ready to get after it. Caleb and I are curious to see what the conditions hold.

After a shuttle by van to the cat, it's time to talk safety. Ross, one of our guides, hands out avalanche transceivers to everyone, and goes though how to properly wear and operate them. Then Oz-it's good to have a leader who just goes by one name-gathers everyone for the briefing. "I know you're all here to have fun and ski some killer snow," he bellows over the wind, "Unfortunately, that's not our main concern. Our main concern is making sure you stay safe out here."

Riding in snow cats is comfortable but it's a little slow. Fortunately, good company helps make the 12-mph trip uphill go a bit faster-the fact that there's almost 40 inches of new snow on the mountain basically erases any boredom. Once we're on the top, we unload, get our skis on, and drop into an open bowl for the first turns of the day. There's really no way to describe powder skiing to someone who hasn't experienced it. It's a feeling people spend their lives chasing, sometimes around the globe and to the tune of serious cash. And here, on the flanks of Mt. Bailey, I am reminded why. The snow spills over the tops of my boots and up to my knees-and I'm tall. One by one we drop through the bowl, arcing turns and hugging the trees along either side for some perspective amid the low visibility.

We stop at the guides above the first steep pitch in the trees. With the amount of snow that's fallen, they're not taking chances on the steeper, more exposed slopes, but even among the trees, there's so much snow that Ross and Oz want to ski-cut the lip above where we plan to ski. Ski-cutting involves a person skiing perpendicular to slope and letting one's skis essentially trigger any snow that was waiting to release as an avalanche. It's standard ski patrol work, and a good way to control limited areas that are at risk. After the ski-cutting, we're sure to pick cautious lines through the lower-angled slopes and the trees. It's easy to lose yourself in this kind of skiing: fast turns amongst the trees, dropping over knolls and through gullies, snow billowing up around your thighs. It's snowing so hard, all you can hear is the wind and the sound of the person just behind you, making for a Zen-like passage through the white and green landscape.

For the rest of the day the cycle is simple: ski, ride cat, repeat. We take turns going first, leading though the untracked snow and soaking up the joy of sliding down the side of a huge mountain.

After a few trips up and down, we return to our first run, and it's difficult to even tell we were ever there. Our tracks have been almost completely filled in by the snow. When it's time to call it a day, we're all pretty toasted, and everyone is wearing the look of a satisfied skier: tired joy.

Back at the lodge, there's talk of the day, and of future trips to Mt. Bailey. Those who've never been here before are hooked, and vow to return. Those for whom this is a repeat performance just smile, knowing the feeling of being tapped into something good: an incredible setting, great people, and the near-indescribable rush of real powder skiing.

What's More
Rates for Cat Ski Mt. Bailey are $350 per day, per person, with a six-customer minimum. There are no fuel surcharges or taxes. For $2,100, all 12 seats on the snow cat can be reserved. If you are planning an extended stay, or live in the area, a five-day pass is available for $1,400 (one free day). Diamond Lake Resort has lodging options including motel rooms with a queen and a double bed; two-bedroom guest cabins; and a deluxe four-bedroom, two-bathroom cabin that sleeps up to 12 people.

Cat Ski Mt. Bailey
Diamond Lake Resort
350 Resort Drive, Diamond Lake
800.733.7593 or 541.793.3333
catski@diamondlake.net
www.CatSkiMtBailey.com

Beyond the bounty of Mt. Bailey, Oregon has numerous other options for those seeking quality skiing. From Bend's expansive and family-friendly Mt. Bachelor to the three ski areas of Mt. Hood to the remote and striking terrain of Ski Anthony Lakes, there are lift-served offerings to suit a range of needs. For those seeking backcountry access, Oregon's Cascade Range is rich with opportunities to explore and "earn your turns." For more details, including contact information, please visit www.SkiOregon.org.