Go East

Despite the number of bridges that span the Willamette River to connect Portland’s east and west sides, the former remains largely unexplored by visitors staying downtown. But that’s starting to change, as several burgeoning eastside neighbhorhoods beckon with an appealing mix of dining, shopping, nightlife and art.

Compared to the west side’s polished Pearl District, these ’hoods are diamonds in the rough. Affordable rents in formerly scruffy neighborhoods have drawn young, creative and enterprising types from near and far over the last several years. The result is a funky mix of old and new buildings and businesses and an independent yet communal spirit among the visionary entrepreneurs who have set up shop here. In fact, it’s not uncommon to meet them in their restaurants, bars, galleries and boutiques—which continue to sprout up every few months.

Here are three up-and-coming eastside neighborhoods well worth a trip across the river.

LoBu (Lower Burnside) Until recently, there were few incentives to pull the car over along this high-traffic stretch just east of the Burnside Bridge. But in the last few years LoBu has evolved from a busy thoroughfare into a pedestrian-friendly destination in its own right, thanks to an influx of vintage shops, boutiques, restaurants, lounges and other independent startups.

The landmark Doug Fir Lounge, a clever hybrid of modern design and log-cabin lodge style, hosts many of the best local and national rock and roll acts playing Puddletown in its lower-level, smoke-free venue nearly every night of the week. Cozy up by the fireplace upstairs with a cocktail or settle into an ample diner booth for lunch with a grilled cheese and a good-old-fashioned milkshake. Spacious and dimly lit, Rontoms lounge is another enticing evening option with a Midwest mid-century-modern aesthetic, comfortable conversation areas and a hip crowd of twenty- and thirty-somethings that multiplies on weekend nights.

One of the newest additions to the LoBu food and wine scene is sommelier Amalie Roberts’ charming wine bar Kir, named for an aperitif served at French sidewalk cafés. Spanish and new-American-style small plates, created by renowned local chef Susan Navarre Cheney, are paired with sherries, rosés and sparkling wines, and the extensive glass pour and bottle list features selections from southern France, Italy and Spain. (Cocktails may be added eventually.)

Another LoBu purveyor of exquisite European exports is lingerie boutique Lille. Co-owners Sara Yurman and Sarah Wizmann have transformed a nondescript retail space into a welcoming French boudoir-inspired store with exquisite lingerie (much of it vintage-inspired and very wearable), fragrant bath products, locally designed jewelry and other carefully chosen girlie items. The pretty dressing rooms—furnished with antique vanities and rugs, French maps, and other romantic touches—alone are worth a visit. For something funkier, Redux offers reasonably priced, unique jewelry and other handcrafted accessories made from recycled materials by primarily local designers.

There’s no shortage of local art to be found on the walls of stores and cafés in the neighborhood, but for a true gallery experience head to contemporary art space the New American Art Union (NAAU), which exhibits new media (video installations and more) as well as fine art, with group exhibitions curated by regional artists.

Restaurant Row (N.E./S.E. 28th Ave.)
The high concentration of outstanding eateries within a few blocks of the East Burnside Street and 28th Avenue intersection has earned this neighborhood its Restaurant Row moniker, and a new development (slated for completion by early 2009) featuring condominiums, ground-floor retail and another restaurant will no doubt add to the area’s allure.

Crema Bakery & Café is a pleasant place to start the day with a newspaper, cappuccino and pastry (baked goods, including hearty bread used for panini, are made on-site). Laptop-toting creative types come for the free Wi-Fi and substantial tables, and families keep the airy, inviting space buzzing on weekends. Natural light filters in through floor-to-ceiling windows, brightening even the dreariest day. (Scrabble, anyone?)

Once sufficiently caffeinated, head across the street to upscale boutique Una to browse the easy-fitting women’s apparel (including sumptuous linens and silks), jewelry and select housewares. Next door is Artemisia Garden Nursery and Gallery, a poetic collection of original art, plants and gifts. Most of the items are handcrafted, from the paintings and small-scale printing presses to locally designed metal jewelry and paper journals.

At SMUT (So Many Unique Treasures) the focus is on vintage wares, and this shop offers more of them per square foot than just about anyplace else in town: leather jackets, cowboy boots, dusty paperbacks, LPs and paint-by-numbers kits, for starters. Hits of yore spin on an old record player as customers wander the narrow aisles in search of that special something (which isn’t hard to find).

After an afternoon of exploring, head to Ken’s Artisan Pizza, one of the hottest pie places in town. The massive wood-fired oven is the center of the action in the modern-rustic, bustling dining room, especially when the piping-hot, thin-crust pizzas emerge. To avoid a long wait when the doors open at 5, get in line at 4:45 p.m. (And yes, it’s that good.) Masu East offers excellent sushi, artisan sakes, and a more urban, sophisticated dining experience than Ken’s next door. Sit at the sushi bar and watch the chefs work their magic, and ask for recommendations if you’re feeling adventurous. (Who else is going to talk you into sampling sea urchin?) Reservations are recommended.

Southeast Division/Clinton Streets
One of the most exciting eastside neighborhoods for unique, internationally inspired cuisine is Southeast Division/Clinton Street. In recent years, several new eateries along these parallel streets have captured the attention of gourmands both locally and nationally, and the options seem to expand every few months; today’s industrial supply store could be tomorrow’s restaurant of the year.

The neighborhood is also home to multiple yoga studios and independently owned shops catering to the bohemian residents of this laid-back, burgeoning neighborhood. Visitors can even catch a glimpse of area artists at work in their studios during the annual Southeast Art Walk in early March.

Portlanders brunch on weekends en masse, and Broder is a wildly popular choice for good reason. The cheery, Scandinavian-themed sliver of a place turns out baked scrambles, seasonal breakfast bords (featuring small portions of smoked trout, cheeses, preserves and other delights) and Aebleskiver (Danish pancakes), in addition to tasty lunch and dinner options.

For Thai cuisine beyond the ordinary, Whiskey Soda Lounge/Pok Pok is a must. Chef and owner Andy Ricker has taken the local and national culinary scene by storm with his original takeout stand (Pok Pok) and expanded bar and restaurant (Whiskey Soda Lounge), recreating intensely flavorful, traditional Thai khap klaem (food served with alcohol) dishes discovered during his extensive culinary travels in Thailand. Deemed 2007 Restaurant of the Year by The Oregonian, Whiskey Soda Lounge is often packed at dinnertime, but you can bide your time sipping a cocktail out front or across the street at the tiny Matchbox Lounge. Alternately, head to Pok Pok for lunch, when it’s easier to garner a seat.

A few blocks up the street at dessert boutique Pix Patisserie, the mood is distinctly French. Artistic, elegant pastries and handmade chocolates are complemented by a selection of dessert wines and Belgian beers, and everything about the quaint place—from the desserts to the kitschy décor—makes for a sweet conclusion to a rewarding day of eastside exploring.