1.
From the City to the Countryside
Start out at Ponzi Vineyards, one of the Valley’s pioneers, and a gateway to Oregon’s wine country. The 100-acre family-owned vineyard is run now by the second generation. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi says Oregon’s relative newcomer status means there’s plenty of innovation and lots of character among the wineries. “Every place looks different. There are teeny barns, then large, elegant wineries,” she says. “It’s exciting to go out and discover them.”
From Ponzi take a detour and follow a stretch of the Washington County scenic loop, past fruit orchards, to the town of Scholls where you’ll find Smith Berry Barn. The old wooden barn sells seasonal berries, all locally grown, as well as produce and gifts. Across the street is Scholls Public House, an old-style family restaurant and maker of possibly Oregon’s best pizza. Chef Brian Spangler, a trained baker, believes the slow preparation of his dough—36 hours—is the secret to a perfect crust.
2.
Into the Heart of Wine Country
Head next to route 99 West to reach the heart of wine country. Rex Hill, just outside Newberg, was once the site of a fruit and nut drying plant. In the tasting room you can still see some of the bricks that made up its drying ovens. Farther south, in Dundee, is where you’ll find most of the big names. Sokol Blosser is one, renowned for its wholly organic wine and sustainable farming practices. Outside the tasting room is a showcase vineyard with 10 varietals of grapes.
Another organic vineyard is Archery Summit, whose winemaker and vineyard manager are both women—a rarity in the tradition-bound industry of winemaking. Besides tasting, you can visit (and smell) Oregon’s only caves where the wine is aged in hundreds of French oak barrels. In addition to the tasting room that’s open year-round, the winery offers tastings in the cellar-like fermentation hall during Memorial Day weekend, and by appointment.
For a little fresh air, visit Erath Vineyards Winery, located high in the hills over Dundee. One of the founding Wineries, Erath has grown to 115 acres, and features a tasting room filled with Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Gewurztraminer, among other varietals. Bring a picnic lunch and stay awhile—the outside terrace offers sweeping views of the valley.
3.
Over the hills and far away
Over a few more hills lies the grand winery of Domaine Drouhin. Véronique Drouhin is a fourth-generation winemaker, from Burgundy, France, where her siblings run the family’s main estate. Over Memorial Day weekend, the winery brings out a new release, which last year sold out within hours.
For a contrast, head next to the Carlton Winemakers Studio, in nearby Carlton. The three-year-old cooperative is the first of its kind in Oregon, serving varietals made by 10 small premium winemakers who each buy grapes from local growers, then share the equipment to make their masterpieces. The tasting room, which feels surprisingly intimate given the hugely vaulted ceiling, offers Northwest snack fare to complement the wines.
When it’s time for dinner, try the Dundee Bistro where the motto is: “Live well, eat well.” This lively, modern restaurant—where vintners often gather to discuss the harvest’s prospects—serves gourmet dishes cooked from local, organically farmed produce and meat.
For a more intimate experience, Red Hills Provincial Dining is set in a converted house built in 1912. The Pacific Northwest menu is supplemented with produce grown from the restaurant’s 12-bed garden just outside.
Afterward spend a quiet night at Red Ridge Farms, an herb and specialty plant nursery that offers a luxury country-inn apartment. Scents from over 100 varieties of lavender and other fragrant herbs fill the farm’s air. Its ridge-top setting offers views across the valley to the coastal mountain range, and at night, when the nursery and shop close down, this view and the farm become your own, affording perfect solitude.
More lively is the Hotel Oregon, in historic downtown McMinnville. This century-old hotel was recently renovated by Oregon’s famed McMenamin brothers and features their hallmark whimsical style. Hallways are painted with wine-inspired notes and each room is dedicated to characters from the hotel’s history. Ask for the “Wine Pioneers” room and raise a glass to those early enthusiasts who got Oregon’s great wine-making started. – Polly Forster